Malan Lamian 马兰拉面
Lamian joints may abound in the city (look for green and white signs with Arabic script), but this chain dominates and is now taking it global. There’s an old saying that lists every component necessary for ‘proper’ lamian (hand-pulled noodles) from Lanzhou: ‘One clear, two white, three red, four green, five yellow.’ Malan has this formula down and then some. It’s taken this classic colour-coded recipe – signifying broth, turnip, chili, garnishes and noodles respectively – and expanded its reach across the Pacific to LA.
The eats Slurp up their signature dish of hand-pulled noodles (malan lamian, 马兰拉面; 15RMB) – with the option of extra beef (8RMB) – or get it as part of a set (taocan, 套餐) that includes a marinated egg, pickled vegetables and a cola for 20RMB. Malan also offers a serviceable selection of non-soup noodles (banmian, 拌面) and rice dishes like curried chicken (galijiroufan, 咖喱鸡肉饭; 16RMB).