The flagship Chinese restaurant at the Four Seasons Beijing is in a class of its own.
The décor of illuminated lattice work,
polished marble and onyx hint at the
truly palatial proportions of the cuisine.
The kitchen, which remains silent and
out of sight, casts doubt on almost
everything we thought we knew about
Check out the
xioalongbao with an almost obscene
amount of hairy crab roe – now this is
living. The simmered prawns with black
garlic and coriander are miraculously
savoury and rich like foie gras, yet as light as if they had been simply
poached. Cubes of red braised pork
with Japanese abalone coat the mouth with waves of rich fat that fades into an
undertone of deep-sea flavour. It’s not
cheap, but if this is what quality costs
we wouldn’t have it any other way.